JODHPUR
Exile: Situated on the edge of the vast Thar Desert, and part of the old kingdom of Marwar, Jodhpur is the driest, and at close to 600 years, the oldest of all the Rajasthani cities. Treat yourself to a night of royalty at a plush room in the Umaid Bhawan
Palace, once the world’s largest private residence, part of which has been converted into a luxury hotel. An imposing piece of architecture, the palace is built entirely of interlocking pink sandstone blocks. The museum, fully royal family oriented, has lots of family pictures, family history and family heirlooms, giving an interesting glimpse into what a remarkably quirky and rich lifestyle they led up to the 1950s, unmatched by any other moneyed class, when they spent all their money and time on hobbies and made-to-order stuff from Cartier, Bulgari, Louis Vuitton etc. The exhibits include antique clocks, toy engines, china tableware, silver cutlery, and Chinese vases.
Exorcise: Jodhpur is famed for its vegetable and mineral dyed dhurries, made of pure, hand-twisted cotton, sheep wool, jute, and even smelly camel hair. Drive over to neighboring villages and pick out some in amazing colors and designs, all painstakingly woven by hand, each piece taking from anywhere between a week and three months to weave. If the weaver has time, he will smilingly give you a fascinating lecture-demonstration on dyeing and twisting the threads, and the intricate warps and weaves done on his loom. The women concentrate on beautiful hand-block printed textiles; it’s captivating to watch them at work.
Express: This is the city after which riding breeches are named, so while here try to catch an electrifying game of polo. With its heady pace, fans of the game claim that it beats any other sport for sheer thrill and excitement. The best medicine to heal your broken heart? Become a skilled equestrian yourself at the exceptional institute to train wannabe players/riders run by the present Maharaja’s family. Contact The Jodhpur Polo and Equestrian Institute at 91-291-510100 or email ubp@ndf.vsnl.net.in for details.
Explore: The Mehrangarh Fort, built in 1459 and set impossibly precariously on a
stone outcrop, can be viewed from miles away. Author Aldous Huxley was enamored enough to liken it to Mount Olympus, while Rudyard Kipling had this to say: “The work of angels, fairies and giants, built by Titans and colored by the morning sun. He who walks through it loses sense of being among buildings. It is as though he walked through mountain gorges…” They were not kidding. What they felt then, you can feel now. Around its massive stone ramparts and winding passageways from where only chinks of sky can be seen, you can pretend to be one of those long bygone queens who sauntered up on caparisoned elephants and lived in exquisitely latticed marble zenanas. At the entrance, hire a walkman and headphones for a helpful step by step audio guide.
