By Kirsty Young
North Cyprus is must be an Mediterranean islands; unspoiled countryside, deserted golden beaches, historic sights uncluttered by tour buses, fresh tasty food and friendly people. The modern Cypriot is a blend of races and cultural influences from the Phoenicians to the Ottomans via the Romans, Egyptians and Venetians. North Cyprus then adds its own Turkish spice to the mix!
North Cyprus is truly a place of EXile, separated from the south of Cyprus by the UN buffer zone that runs smack through the middle of the capital city, Nicosia. Relaxed border regulations now mean that Cypriots from both sides can flow across the border with ease, and North Cyprus is welcoming visitors again with open arms.
The best place to base yourself in North Cyprus is Kyrenia, known locally as Girne. Here, the pretty Venetian harbour is the focus of activity, where you can sit back and enjoy the view over the water from one of the numerous café tables. The English-speaking waiters are usually friendly and flirty but not overbearing; if you want to sit with a Turkish coffee and baklava and read, that's just fine by them. So EXhale that stress and INhale that sea air!
To EXplore North Cyprus fully, you will need a hire car, and if you like to EXplore wild areas, like the rugged Karpas peninsula, a 4x4 is a wise investment. (Local transport is by shared minibuses, which seem to turn up whenever it suits them and pack in as many passengers as possible. It's hot, smelly, and a great way to get close to the locals, but is frustratingly slow with no guarantee of a return journey!) Top of your EXplore list should be the elegant ruins of Bellapais Abbey, where the atmosphere during evening classical concerts held in the old Refectory Hall is positively magical.
Want to EXorcise a demon? Banish any fear of heights with a tandem paraglide from the ruins of St Hilarion castle and soar with the rare vultures over the Kyrneia mountain crags. Then, your pilot brings you down over the countryside to land at the coast just a few miles away. See some amazing pictures at http://www.highlineparagliding.com
Or learn to breathe underwater, well, scuba dive anyway, in the warm waters of the Mediterranean. Cyprus has no tides, so beginners can learn to scuba dive in the open sea in safety. On your first lesson, you could be eyeball to eyeball with local fish, or even one of the rare loggerhead sea turtles that nest on the island's beaches. Make sure you dive with a PADI approved school to ensure a high quality of tuition and equipment; find one at http://www.padi.com
