The Bufa was the Federale stronghold during the revolution 1910-1920 and the museum atop tells the complicated story of Pancho Villa’s Division del Norte – you will see newspaper clippings from the USA closely following the action while Villa was the first general to stage his battles for Hollywood Cameras. The small chapel and rocky peaks with vista points are the perfect spot to EXhale, gaze across the panorama, and contemplate 500 years of a city in transition. Hiking down suddenly the sun turns hot and you feel the terrain with wildflowers, nopal cactus (the flat leaves that are peeled and marinated as a salad) and tunas – the tangy cactus fruit you can pick – or better yet because its prickly - buy peeled from street vendors below in red, orange and green varieties.
EXpression of the artistic variety is alive in Zacatecas – and all around you. The Pedro Colonel museum is in a former Spanish style convent uphill 2 blocks from the Cathedral in the Plaza de Santa Domingo, perpendicular to the mammoth Santo Domingo cathedral. Picasso drawings, Ernst and Miro works & other European and Mexican modernists form this 20th C. Zacatecan’s collection, also exhibited is an unusual colonial era library with books and documents from the 15 - 1600’s. Contemporary Zacatecan artists cover a sweep of styles – gallery hosts will be glad to show you their favorites. In the Arroyo de la Plata (the AP) Gallery; Callejón del Santero 108 - 1 Esq. con Dr. Hierro Centro Histórico) you may be greeted by Javier Cortez, one of the 8 well known painters who exhibits there, curates and sometimes even creates his art on the 16 ft. walls of this 18th century mansion. Tour the entire house and you will move through not only some beautifully displayed artwork, but a fascinating piece of renovation with a spiraling tiled staircases, stone-carved fireplace, and an enormous dining room with a Cortez yellow-red black dramatic painting surrounding the heavy split-log table. Take your time in Zacatecas, don’t hesitate to talk to people in English, pigeon Spanish and sign language– this is Mexico where contact is one on one live and in person! You will discover lots as you EXpand your communication style – underneath many of these old houses are deep tunnels with wells, hidden chambers and legends about treasures and escapes from roving brigands.
Back down on Hidalgo street duck into the 19th Century Teatro Calderon and check the posters for happenings, then right across the street an ongoing display of clowns and performers frequent the Plazuela Goitia. The imposing Mercado Gonzalez Ortega was built according to a French design during the wealthy decades pre-Mexican revolution and today houses boutiques with silver, tooled leather, a Zacatecan wine specialty shop, and a comfortable breakfast-lunch-coffee spot called the Acropolis, where you can get a good meal alongside politicians, families and other visitors. The blocks around the market and the Cathedral are full of regional leather from horse crafts and to some great jackets and boots, as well as fine silver work and antiques.
